This time of year, when the boat has earned its mooring, when browned shoulders beg for a little shade, and there no reservations left at the waterfront restaurants, it feels luxurious if not seditious to sneak into the city to a quiet - no crowds - air-conditioned dining room with beautiful, leisurely-paced food. As much as it’s a summer rite of passage to stand in line at the clam shack, it’s a summer rite to run away from all that back into the empty city, to dine in your favorite restaurant without the crowds but with a staff smiling and happy to see you.
I headed into Bergamot recently, the Somerville restaurant owned and cheffed by Gloucester native Keith Pooler. It felt like a vacation from the vacationers. We enjoyed Bibb Lettuce with tahini vinaigrette, sweet corn chowder with chanterelle conserva and lobster grilled cheese on housemade brioche. We had the Riz au Lait for dessert, the Thai coconut rice pudding that is exactly right on a steamy night. I drank crisp Cava. My daughter approved a couple of cocktails. Around us, tables of what looked like academics who hadn’t left for Martha’s Vineyard yet laughed softly.
Sneak away from Cape Ann for just an evening. If you haven’t visited Cape Ann’s native son (his first job was working at the Grange Gourmet!) this is a great time to go.
