“So, what are you going to do with those cooked lobsters?” I asked the man beside me at the Market Basket fish counter.
“Lobster and corn chowder, a little bacon on top. You get some local corn over in the produce section,” he pointed to the far end of Market Basket, “ a loaf of Virgilio’s bread, and you’re all set.” He gave universal sign declaring a meal perfect: smack of lips and sideways toss of the head.
It sounded great to me, lobster and corn being one of the hallowed September marriages, like figs and honey, or apples and cheddar cheese, and I prefer my lobster shucked, in a steaming milk and wine-laced broth, dancing with sweet kernels of fresh corn. There is no need for hammers or strength, just a spoon. There are no explosive bursts of lobster-yuck from a suddenly released piece of meat. The only muscle required is that which bends the elbow, bringing chowder from bowl to lips. Everything is hot.
And corn, milk and potatoes are such great friends to the sweetness of the lobster, why leave them out? And why not deluxe it all with a crumble of bacon?
I’m offering my adaptation of Ina Garten’s recipe here, only because she makes her own stock. I usually think boxed broths are fine substitutions, but I don’t always have such a glorious show of carnality on my counter: flame-red lobster shells and yellow corn cobs. It felt sinful not to turn them into stock, which Garten does almost as easily as she makes the rest of the soup. I also used only whole milk in my chowder, as I have become accustomed to lighter soups, but feel free to substitute 2 cups of heavy cream for my milk, the way Garten does in the original recipe. She adds sherry and paprika, the latter gives the chowder a low-volume spice I liked. You can leave out the paprika and add a teaspoon of marjoram if you prefer a more New England direction to your chowder, just don’t let those precious lobster shells and corn cobs go to waste.
Lobster, Corn, and Bacon Chowder
serves 6-8
Ingredients
3 (1 1/2-pound) cooked lobsters, cracked and split
3 ears corn
For the stock:
5 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 cup chopped yellow onion
1/4 cup cream sherry
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
6 cups whole milk
1 cup dry white wine
For the soup:
1 tablespoon good olive oil
1/4 pound bacon, large-diced
2 cups large-diced unpeeled Yukon gold potatoes (2 medium)
1 1/2 cups chopped yellow onions (2 onions)
2 cups diced celery (3 to 4 stalks)
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons chopped fresh chives
1/4 cup cream sherry
Instructions
Remove the meat from the shells of the lobsters. Cut the meat into large cubes and place them in a bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Reserve the shells and all the juices that collect. Cut the corn kernels from the cobs and set aside, reserving the cobs separately.
For the stock, melt the butter in a stockpot or Dutch oven large enough to hold all the lobster shells and corncobs. Add the onion and cook over medium-low heat for 7 minutes, until translucent but not browned, stirring occasionally. Add the sherry and paprika and cook for 1 minute. Add the milk, wine, lobster shells and their juices, and corn cobs and bring to a simmer. Partially cover the pot and simmer the stock over the lowest heat for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, in another stockpot or Dutch oven, heat the oil and cook the bacon for 4 to 5 minutes over medium-low heat, until browned and crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and reserve. Add the potatoes, onions, celery, corn kernels, salt, and pepper to the same pot and saute for 5 minutes. When the stock is ready, remove the largest pieces of lobster shell and the corn cobs with tongs and discard. Place a strainer over the soup pot and carefully pour the stock into the pot with the potatoes and corn. Simmer over low heat for 15 minutes, until the potatoes are tender.
At this point you can add the cooked lobster, the chives and the sherry and season to taste. Heat gently and serve hot with a garnish of crisp bacon.
For a more elegant presentation, I warmed the lobster separately, put it into the soup bowl, and ladled the chowder all around, then topping all with the chives and bacon.