Those buckwheat groats in the back of your pantry? That quinoa you bought on a whim in Ann Arbor last year? Realistically, what DO you do with them? How often do your kids come home begging for millet?
Seek out Maria Speck’s book Ancient Grains for Modern Meals, and they will. Speck not only has all kinds of real life, practical advice for storing and using these semi-obscure but wildly nutritious grains (starting with a clear, practical chart that lists quick-cooking grains, things that can be mid-week dinners, and slow-cooking grains, the ones you want to save weekend preparations), but her recipes inspire rash trips to the grocery store for ingredients.
There’s nothing 1970’s health foodie about this. Imagine “Aroma Bread” with Coriander and Fennel. Greek Style Cornbread with Feta and Thyme. (Children will come home begging for this one.) Sesame Crusted Fish Stick with Yogurt Remoulade. Conchiglie with Lamb and Minted Yogurt. And one of my favorites - Sardine Tart with Sweet Bell Peppers and Currants. - to name a few.
The flavors and textures chart the world with modern style. Most of the recipes are straightforward. Most of the ingredients, including the grains, which most grocery stores keep someplace, are accessible.
I love Speck’s discussion of millet, which she describes as having “an almost comedic inflatable quality.” The first time I looked at the recipe for Ricotta Millet Pudding I thought I’d have to double it to serve four. In fact, one half a cup of millet created at least 8 portions of a luscious, raspberry-topped dessert. A sprinkle of gentle millet texture wrapped in ricotta and whipped cream, this is like the tapioca pudding served in heaven. Although millet is easily one of the world’s oldest and most nutritious foods, no guest would ever taste this pudding and say “grain.” They’ll say "ethereal."
Ricotta Millet Pudding with Warm Raspberry Compote (recipe from Ancient Grains for Modern Meals by Maria Speck) serves 6-8
Millet
1 cup water 1/2 cup millet 2/3 cup milk (lowfat is fine) 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract Pinch of fine sea salt
Pudding
1 1/2 cups part-skim ricotta cheese 1/4 cup honey 1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest 2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice 1 cup heavy whipping cream, chilled 1/4 cup sugar
Raspberry Compote
2 1/2 cups fresh or frozen raspberries (no need to thaw) 1/4 cup honey
To prepare the millet, bring the water and millet to a boil in a small saucepan. Decrease the heat to a simmer, cover, and cook until the water is absorbed, about 15-20 minutes. Combine the milk, vanilla, and salt in a small bowl and add to the millet. Return to a simmer, cover, and cook until the milk is absorbed, about 15 minutes more. Remove from the heat and let sit, covered, for 5 minutes. Uncover and cool to room temperature.
Once the millet has cooled, make the pudding. Place the ricotta, honey, lemon zest, and lemon juice in a large bowl and beat with a wooden spoon until the ingredients are well incorporated. Loosen the prepared millet with a fork and stir it into the ricotta mixture, breaking up any lumps.
In another large bowl, whip the cream with a handheld mixer, gradually adding the sugar until medium-firm peaks form. Using a rubber spatula, fold the whipped cream into the ricotta-millet mixture in 3 additions. Divide the pudding among 6-8 serving dishes. Chill, covered with plastic wrap, for at least 2 hours or overnight.
When ready to serve, make the raspberry compote. Place the raspberries and honey in a medium saucepan. Cook over medium-low heat, gently stirring once in a while so as not to crush the berries, until the sauce is hot and berries just warmed through, 5-8 minutes.
To finish, spoon some of the raspberry compote over the chilled ricotta pudding and serve at once.
“Reprinted with permission from Ancient Grains for Modern Meals by Maria Speck, copyright © 2011. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc.”
